12-3-08: New AC Condenser
The AC has been getting flakey lately, so I had the refrigerant recharged a few weeks ago, but no help. Since I will be needing it to be serviced soon, I bought a new 97 AC condenser, part number F7ZZ-19712-BA, from Tousley Ford. They are obsolete, so if you want one, you should probably grab one soon. I have read many places on the internet that the cooling problems of the 96 Cobras was finally determined to be due to the AC condenser being too dense to get enough air through to the radiator. I measured 16 fins/inch on the new condenser as compared to 22 fins/inch on the old one.
Here is a high res picture of the new condenser:
11-12-08: Fuel Pressure Transducer Relocation
About a year ago, my Autometer Phantom fuel pressure gauge started reading about 10 PSI too low, and it took me a while to get around to debugging the problem. At idle, the vacuum was about 22 inches of mercury, which is about -11PSI. At that vacuum, with the fuel pump and fuel pressure regulator working properly, the fuel pressure should be about 28 PSI. When I checked with two different mechanical fuel pressure gauges, I saw about 32 PSI. When I tested the meter by hooking the sender up to a regulated compressor, it also read low.
While researching the problem, I found the installation instructions on line, and read that, in full race or high RPM engines, the fuel pressure transducer should not be mounted to the fuel rail, rather it should be mounted remotely to the body of the car. The shop that installed the gauge when they installed the supercharger, installed it directly on the fuel rail.
I sent the transducer and gauge back to Autometer, and they determined that the transducer had failed. They gave me a new one for free, in spite of the fact that it is well out of warranty.
I decided to do a remote mount of the sender, so this is the how to for that.
For the fuel line and fittings, I went to Royal Brass in San Jose. I bought two feet of high pressure fuel injection fuel line, a female fitting for the pressure transducer with a barb fitting on the other end, a barbed bike pump fitting and two double-ear clamps.
I also got a 1 cushion support clamp which I got from Orchard Supply Hardware store.
I decided to mount the transducer on the shock tower using one of the holes left when the strut bar was removed. Using pliers, I had to tighten the loop around the transducer to make it hold it securely. Since the loop is now slightly less than 1, I needed to trim off a bit of the rubber cushion. I had to enlarge the holes in the clamp a bit to fit the strut bar bolt. If you do this, make sure you hold the clamp tight in the vice because the drill will grab the sheet metal clamp and spin it fast. You could get hurt if that happens.
Then I rerouted the fuel pressure gauge wiring to reach the new mounting location.
I put one of the double-ear clamps on the fuel line, pushed the barbed side of the female transducer fitting into one side of the fuel line. Using a diagonal cutter, I crimped the double ears to secure the fitting. I test fit it onto the transducer on the shock tower and cut the fuel line to reach the Schrader valve on the fuel rail.
I put the other double-ear clamp on the fuel line and inserted the barbed end of the bicycle pump fitting into the fuel line. I crimped the double-ear clamp on the hose to secure the bike pump fitting.
I tightened the pipe fitting on the transducer and tightened the bike pump fitting on the Schrader valve.
When I tested the setup, the gauge read properly, but I had fuel leaks at both ends of the fuel line. I tightened the pipe fitting on the transducer very tight, and took the fuel line and transducer back to Orchard Supply Hardware to buy a 3/16 O-ring to fit inside of the bike pump fitting.
After I reinstalled the fuel line, I had no leaks, but the pressure transducer seems to have stopped working. I see 5V across the gray and black wires as I should, but I also see 5V across the black and purple wires, which is not right. I later determined that the O-ring in the bike pump Schrader fitting prevented the pin from opening the Schrader valve. Grrr...
11-25-08:
Since I determined that the bike pump fitting with the added O-ring didn't allow the pin to open the Schrader valve, I decided to buy a barbed male pipe fitting, which I did. I reused the brass reducer that Apex had mounted on the fuel rail with the initial install and used Permatex fuel-rated thread sealer on the threads. It is working great now. It will be easier to debug my continuing AF issues at the top of my WOT runs.
Oh, and I ran the gauge wires and boost gauge lines through a slit in the main harness grommet on the driver's side:
6-16-08: Fuel Pump and Radiator Upgrade
I had a Mallory 255LPH fuel pump installed today. I also had a Fluidyne radiator installed today as well.
5-10-08: Fuel Pressure Problem
I noticed on the WB that I was going lean up top, so I looked at my fuel pressure gauge and saw that I am not getting over 39 lbs of fuel pressure even when I am at 6 lbs of boost. Since I recently replaced the fuel filters, I suspected the BAP/Fuel pump circuit might be giving me trouble again. So I pulled the trunk liner out and this is what I found at the input wire for the KB BAP where the people who installed it crimped in a butt connector in front of the BAP fuse:
As you can see, it has been getting really hot. This is another example of why crimp connectors are a very bad idea!
I cut out the burned part of the supply wire and put insulated spade lug connectors on both sides of the BAP for diagnostic purposes. This enabled me to bypass the BAP to run the stock fuel pump circuit.
Since the Cobra has a 2 stage fuel pump system, at idle, the fuel pump voltage is about 10.87V. When I rev the engine up to about 4K RPM, that jumps up to about 12.1V. This seems about right, although, I am really not sure. The fuel pump wire stays nice and cool to the touch.
I then hooked up a variable power supply to the KB BAP to test it. With an input voltage of 7.9V, the BAP output varies from 13.04V to 17.28V as the BAP knob is turned from 0-5. With an input voltage of 12.6V, the BAP output varies from 13.04V to 17.28V. With an input voltage of 14.5V, the BAP output varies from 14.3V to 17.28V. My power supply can only supply 3A, so I could not test the BAP using the variable power supply with it hooked up to the fuel pump.
At this point, I put the BAP back into the car's fuel pump system. With the ignition on, but the car not running, I saw 0.126V at the input of the BAP, and 0.033V at the BAP output.
After I started the car, at idle, the input voltage of the BAP was about 7V, and the output about 12.5V regardless of the BAP knob setting. At 4K RPM, the input voltage of the BAP was12.1V and the output is13.0V with the knob at 0, and 15.9V with the knob at 5. The wire is noticeably warm to the touch and I am seeing a 0.2V drop across the inertial cutoff switch.
I have no idea what is going on with my fuel pressure. I have verified that it is running lean up top and changing the MAF transfer function has no effect, so it appears I have a definite fuel delivery problem...
Spark plug wiring diagram and lengths:
I decided to replace the Ford Racing spark plug wires. Just because I am so detail-oriented, I drew a diagram of the plug wire routing. I also measured the old Ford Racing wires and the new ones and recorded both:
Per Ken at Kenne Bell, here is how you test a Boost-A-Pump:
"There are two sheathed cables - one contains the "activation" circuit wires (vacuum/boost switch), the other is the control cable. Make sure you do not mix these up. Both sheaths contain red and black wires, so you can't tell which is which if you cut these - we label them from here "C" for the Control cable, and "S" for the Switch.
To test it is simple: jumper the S cable wires, and then use the controller to turn the voltage up and down. Check the output lead (large red wire without the Fuse) coming out of the BAP with a DVM probe (positive) and touch the DVM negative to a ground. The voltage should go from approx. 12.5 to 17 as you turn the dial."
I figured out that the car must be running when you run this test.
How to identify a KB 1.5 vs a KB 1.7:
Kenne Bell originally shipped thier supercharger kit for the 96-98 Cobra with a 1.5L blower, but have since switched to a 1.7L blower for that kit.
Per James at KB, the serial number stamped on the side of the blower will have a "3150" in it if it is a 1.5L unit and "417" in it if it is a 1.7L unit.
Initial install of the Kenne Bell supercharger:
On July 18th, they put the car on the dyno to check it and it ran fine for two pulls and then it got very lean for subsequent pulls. Today on July 19th, they learned that the MAF sensor is pegging. Kenne Bell is overnighting an adapter that enables then to use a Lightning MAF sensor which should not peg. Here are pictures of the car on the dyno of the BAP and of the Griggs Racing subframe connectors. And another picture under the hood.
Here are pictures of the install of the Kenne Bell supercharger kit taking place during June and July of 2006.
These high res pictures are of my stock Cobra engine before the installation of the Kenne Bell supercharger. The car including the engine are at about 50K miles in April of 2006.
Install a Volant CAI & analyse it:
In preparation for the Kenne Bell supercharger that may get here some day, I wanted to ensure that I was getting the coolest air into my engine as possible. I had removed the snorkel on the stock air box of my 96 Cobra, and installed a K&N air filter.
Using my Xcal2, and SCTs LiveLink software, I logged my commute home and saw that my Intake Air Charge temperatures would go way up while I was stopped at stop lights, and then drop down while I was driving. I figured that when the car was in motion, there was plenty of cool air displacing the hot air in the engine compartment. But I figured when the car was stopped at the light, the air in the engine compartment would heat up, with plenty of hot air getting into the air box and fender.
I did some research about cool air intakes on the internet, and selected the Volant Cool Air Intake kit because it leaves the MAF sensor and filter in the stock location, but uses an airbox that fits perfectly into the hole in the fender that the stock snorkel goes into. There are no pipes with bends in front of the MAF sensor to cause turbulence, and I dont have to move it all into the fender. Volant also claims that the material they use is a good insulator, so it keeps the air cooler than the stock material does. I decided to buy one and put it to the test.
The first challenge was to find one in stock. It turns out that Volant stopped making their CAI kit for the 96-98 Cobras about a year ago. I finally found one on the Truck N Vans Warehouse web site, and I ordered it. It turned out they only had one left and it was lost in their warehouse system. It took them a couple of weeks to locate it and get it shipped to me. You can still get Volant CAIs for the 00-02 Cobras, and the 96-02 GTs and 3.8s, but I am pretty sure I got the last available unit.
Installing the Volant Cool Air Intake kit:
1. The Volant 96-98 Cobra kit has two bypass hose fittings, one for the stock 3/4 hose and one for a 5/8 hose. If you have a stock setup, you will need to buy a 5/8 cap to cap off that fitting as you will not use it. (I got mine at Winchester Auto Parts.) You will also need 4.5 of Ύ hose, since the stock bypass hose was 1.5 too short. The stock Volant pipe had an un-drilled fitting for the hose that goes to the passenger side valve cover. You will need to drill a hole in that fitting about the size of the hole you capped on the other side. Volant included a short length of hose that goes on that fitting, but that hose was one size larger than the hose that goes into the valve cover. That necessitated another trip to Winchester Auto Parts to get a reducing adapter, which they had, thank God. I also found the metric bolts that Volant supplied to be too short, so I bought four M6x40 Pitch 1.0 bolts at Orchard Supply, which worked fine.
2. Unplug the MAF sensor and pull the IAT sensor out of the grommet in the stock pipe. I stuffed them into the hole in the fender that the wiring harness runs through to get them out of the way and protected.
3. Remove the stock air box with the filter. Remove the Volant air box cover and remove the factory oiled air filter from the air box.
4. Unplug the bypass hose and the valve cover hose from the stock pipe.
5. Loosen the hose clamp that holds the MAF sensor assembly to the intake pipe and remove the MAF sensor assembly.
6. Loosen the hose clamp that holds the intake pipe to the throttle body and remove the stock intake pipe. This is a good time to clean the whole area.
7. Test fit the air box into the hole in the side of the fender. Hold the air box bracket with the long side reaching to the bolt that holds the hood rod, and mark with a pencil the bracket slot on the air box. Drill a hole the size of the small bolt supplied by Volant into the airbox and mount the bracket with the bolt head on the inside, with a washer under it, and a washer, lock washer and nut over the bracket, and tighten.
8. On the bench, remove the four nuts that hold the MAF sensor to the back of the air box, and remove the MAF sensor.
9. You will see that the top two bolt holes in the Volant MAF adapter are so close that the washers they supply will not fit, so I used a bench grinder to grind down one side of two washers so they would fit the two holes. BTW, the instructions say to install the MAF sensor with the bolt heads on the outside and the nuts on the inside, but I found that the nuts interfered with the installation of the air filter, so I turned them around. With my setup, I have the heads on the inside and the nuts on the outside as you can see in the pictures.
10. The Volant MAF adapter goes inside of the air box, and it only fits one way. Use a washer and a bolt in each hole. Install the Volant supplied MAF sensor gasket first on the outside of the air box, followed by the MAF sensor, followed by a flat washer, a lock washer and a nut on each bolt, and tighten.
11. Put the large hose on the throttle body, along with one of the large hose clamps. Tighten the hose clamp. Put the other large hose clamp on the large hose, but dont tighten it yet.
12. Push the plastic air pipe into the large hose on the throttle body, but dont tighten the hose clamp yet.
13. Put one of the smaller hose clamps on each side of the MAF sensor hose and loosely fit it on the other end of the plastic pipe.
14. Push the Volant air box down into place, squeezing the MAF sensor hose over the MAF sensor fitting. Hold the MAF sensor hose up against the MAF sensor fitting stops while you tighten the hose clamp that holds the hose on the MAF sensor. Get someone to hold your hood open while you remove your hood rod bolt, and put the mounting bracket over the hood rod bracket and bolt them both down with the hood rod bolt.
15. Put the valve cover hose onto its fitting, cut the bypass hose to fit and put it on its fitting. Jiggle the plastic pipe till it fits all four hoses they way you want and then tighten the hose clamps at both ends.
16. Plug in the MAF sensor connector and install the IAT sensor into the grommet on the side of the plastic pipe.
17. Put the air filter hose clamp on the air filter and then squeeze the air filter down onto the MAF adapter. You will need to deform the fat end a bit to get the filter to go down into the box.
18. Tighten the air filter hose clamp and put the air box cover on and tighten the screws and you are done.
Analyzing the performance of the 96-98 Cobra Volant Cool Air Intake kit:
I zip-tied a thermocouple to the strut brace right above the stock intake pipe, and ran the wire into the passenger side window to my BluePoint multimeter so I could read the engine compartment air temperature while I drove.
I decided that I wanted to run the same simple logging run twice, once with the stock pipe and once with the Volant kit. I picked a route that had some surface streets with lights and some freeway.
The ambient temperature for both runs was about 70*F, and the engine coolant temperature was at about 192*F. For both runs, I found that while driving at a decent speed on both the expressway and the freeway, the temperature in the engine compartment was only about 77*F or 78*F, but when the car was warmed up well and after Id romped on it on the freeway, and I sat at a long stoplight, I saw under-hood temperatures get as high as 140*F. After I let it idle in the driveway for a while after I got home, the under-hood temperature got up to 155*F both times.
With the stock intake pipe and box, I found that at the stoplights, the intake air temperature would go up 8-10*F depending on how long I sat at the lights, and then back down when I was moving again. When I got home from the run, I just let the hot engine idle in the driveway, and I saw the engine compartment temperatures climb to about 155*F, and the IAT went up to a peak of 106*F.
With the Volant CAI kit, I found that the Intake Air Temperatures were consistently 8-10*F cooler that with the stock air pipe and box. It ran at about 70*C while driving with the Volant and about 78*F with the stock intake. It would heat up at the stoplights, but stayed 8*F cooler than the similar run with the stock gear. When I let it idle in the driveway after I got home, I saw the engine compartment temperature hit 155*F, but the IAT peaked at 96*F, a 10 degree difference.
Bottom line, it looks like the Volant kit gives me an 8-10*F improvement in IATs.
Cheap Mini Oil Catch Can
I wanted to stop the oil loss and gunking up of my intake and IMRCs, so I made my own cheap mini oil catch can.
T56 Reverse Lockout Solenoid Connector:
Most people who drop a Tremec T56 6 speed transmission into a Mustang use two hands to muscle through the electric reverse lockout. For those who want to hook up a pushbutton switch to enable the electric reverse lockout release, the part numbers for the solenoid connector of the T56 are either GM # 12101857 or ACDelco # PT249.
